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Looking wholesale sexy swimwear at Instagram' s Influence on Fashion as the App Turns 5

What is relevant today? Is it wholesale fashion dresses need or provocation? Can fashion and theater coexist? riffed Alber Elbaz backstage at Lanvin this season. Elbaz's line of questioning feels especially pertinent now, when the need for an Instagram-worthy moment is as important to some brands as a critic's review or accessories sales. I can speak straight to my Balmain army, instantly, and I am making fashion for them, Balmain's Olivier Rousteing said in this week's New Yorker. It is too bad for critics if they cannot understand this, but the truth is now that their critiques do not matter. Elbaz, for his part, opted to serve both masters, sending out intricately cut and tailored pieces in black and white for the first third of his show, and filling the last two-thirds with some of the sparkliest, most joyous, picture-worthy clothes of the entire season. The popular adage is that Instagram is changing the way we see fashion, turning it into an industry with international appeal and a WME/IMG-backed channel for Apple TV in the works. But the app has done more than change the way we engage with fashion—Instagram is changing clothing itself.

Take a look at the trends people will be talking about now that the shows have wrapped. In one corner, you have the eye-catchers—sequins, glittering embellishments, metallics, logo-mania, feathers—and in the other, the revealers—lingerie dressing, off-the-shoulder cuts, transparent fabrications that reveal the female form underneath gauzy tulle and chiffon. If these ideas sound familiar, it's because they're the strategies that Instagram's most-followed stars employ. There are the eye-catching accounts (Nicki Minaj, et al) and the revealing ones (Rihanna, Kim Kardashian West, and, in some ways, Beyoncé). Fashion's biggest trends seem to be drawing inspiration not from these women, but from the way these women market their lives on the social platform. (It's worth noting that the majority of Instagram's top-followed accounts and most-liked photos come from female-run accounts, only making it more appealing to the fashion world. )

Runway fashion is meant to reflect and react to our contemporary world, and in this way the apparent internalization of Instagram techniques and strategies into fashion seems not only smart but necessary. Still, for the Luddites among us, there's a question that's worth asking this season: Where are the clothes that are neither sequined nor see-through? Or rather, what do clothes that aren't intended to be seen on Instagram or on the red carpet (the Instagram of the Old World) look like?