For years, rumors circulated in the fashion industry about models who were mistreated—harassed by casting directors, or paid only in trade, or pressured to sacrifice their health in order to fit into sample sizes. But these stories didn’t make headlines until brave souls behind the scenes spoke up about them publicly.
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The latest whistle-blower to send shock waves through the industry is the veteran casting director James Scully who, with an incendiary Instagram post on Monday, is bringing a new level of scrutiny on the working conditions for fashion models at top events like Paris Fashion Week. Scully called out Lanvin by claiming the brand issued a “mandate” to casting directors that they “do not want to be presented with women of color.” He also criticized by name Balenciaga’s casting directors, Maida Gregori Boina and Rami Fernandes, for an incident in which models were allegedly locked in a dark stairway for over three hours.
The impact of Scully’s social post was immediate. Balenciaga responded swiftly by severing its relationship with the casting agents involved and releasing a contrite statement. Stating that the company sent written apologies to the affected models, Balenciaga reiterated that it is “deeply committed” to providing “respectful working conditions for the models.”
Though Scully’s decision may have led to a positive change in this case, in the following interview the casting director says he intends to continue to stand up for models—even if it means jeopardizing his own career.
What made you want to speak out in the first place?
Where do you see this going—do you plan on continuing to expose these stories?
In just one day not only are models sharing the post, they’re actually telling their stories [in the comments]. I really want these girls to have their voice back. In the old days, if a girl didn’t want to do a job, if she felt sexually harassed, she could say, “No, I don’t want to do this.” Now it’s, “Either you do my show or you don’t work again.” I’m hoping to see what happens. I’ve now had several agents who I’ve always wanted to get behind me and they’ve all called me today. I feel like there is a momentum and we’re going to be able to work together to do something that can really impact change.
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